Nuno Santiago

Hi Paul,

sorry to have taken so long to reply.

The BMG-HT is compatible with newer Funmat-HT versions but some additional details have to be taken care. The most important regarding the max current settings. These settings have to be addressed by changing the DIP switches configuration on the extruder stepper motor driver.

The right settings are

SW1 ON,

SW2 OFF,

SW3 ON

This will set the PEAK current to 0.7A as intended.

The stepper motor driver can be found below the lid on the bottom of the spool compartment.

If at any time you’ve had problems with filament leaks and there are filament deposits on the heater block (which is one reason you are installing this heat break) break free the heater element screw and the thermistor screw at this time.  As stated in Step 8, you’ll need to hold the heater block in place to prevent damage to the heater element and thermistor.

.

Comment sent by Larry Clark via Contact Form

Hi Doug,

This guide was using a CR-10S with the original mainboard. In more recent models, the contact point to read the negative voltage supply is in a different point.

We updated the guide to account for the newer mainboard versions, from 2.0 to 2.2.

Hope this helps solve your problem.

Let us know if it doesn’t.

Thanks.

Hi Rene,

This guide was using a CR-10S with the original mainboard. In more recent models, the contact point to read the negative voltage supply is in a different point.

We updated the guide to account for the newer mainboard versions, from 2.0 to 2.2.

Hope this helps solve your problem.

Let us know if it doesn’t.

Thanks.

Dear Tom,

Thank you for alerting users to the filament sensor housing fitting issue. It is true that our first batches of DDS Systems included a filamento sensor mount that was fitting the previous version of the CR-10S, but not the new one.

For that reason we added an alert in this guide and we are also adding it to the DDS setup as well.

Dear Joscha,

There is not enough space there to use metal inserts to grab the screws.

We decided on letting the screws open the threads themselves.

The fan doesn’t exerts much strain on the structure so the screws don’t need, and should not, be overtighten.

We will add a note regarding this in this Step Guide.

Thank you for your feedback.

Dear Gilles,

We noticed there was a duplicate step and was removed.

Thank you for your feedback.

Hi Ben,

The Cable Holder was not intentionally placed upside down : )

It works both ways, but if you find Prusa’s option better, please use it.

Gilles,

This is a press-fit. It should be tight. If you are having trouble pressing it with your fingers, use a tool to push, like a screwdriver or pliers.

Dear Gilles,

Thank you for alerting us to this mistake.

The Axial Fan Cable should go in the plug shown in picture 3.

The blue square in picture 1 was relocated to mark the correct plug.