Nuno Santiago

Hi Russ, Sorry I took so much time to answer your questions. Let’s start with the filament sensor housing. We were alerted for this situation already. Creality3D changed the CR-10S after we released our upgrade. Nevertheless, we are supplying our customers with a STL file to print a new housing that fits both models. Since late 2nd week of July the product is shipping with this new housing. Regarding your questions: 1) With the DDS for CR-10S, we ship the following nozzle: (1) 1x E3D brass nozzle 0.4mm. 2) It will always depend on the PLA you are using, but in generic terms we recommend the following base settings: (1) Temperature: 205C on the first layer and 200C above. (2) Heated Bed: 60C (3) Layer Height: 0,2mm (always lower than 0.32mm or 80% of the nozzle diameter) (4) Default Print Speed: 60 mm/s (5) Outline Speed : 50% (6) Infill Speed: 80% (7) Extrusion Multiplier: 0,94 (8) Retraction Distance: 0,80mm (9) Retraction Speed: 40 mm/s (10) Contour Lines: 2 (or more for stronger parts) (11) Infill: 15%...

Hi Phil, We are very glad you solve the problem. You are up and running. That’s very good. We would just like to post a short note on this issue for Future cases. In our guide for the MK3S installation, Step 44 Plug Cables Into Control Box 3/3, there are specific instructions regarding this issue. Placing the connector in the wrong orientation will make the motor turn the opposite direction. Reversing the orientation of the connector will solve the issue. Important is to take notice the black wire should be placed on top.

Hi, Most likely the connector for the thermistor has moved during transport so one of the wires is not connected. If you look on the rear of the extruder housing there is a black connector for the thermistor. Make sure the thermistor is fully connected, that the crimps have not moved out of the housing. All units are tested and before packaging, as we connect each DDS to a controller to verify that they all work. We even extrude material to make 100% sure everything works as expected.   Let me know how it works out for you.

Hi Patrich, it is hard to tell and there may be more than one explanation. (1) What is the setting of your thumbscrew? For hard filaments we recommend to tighten fully and then back it off about 1.5 turns. (1) If it is retraction speed related, I would suggest you to test it at 30 mm/s. Your setting for Acceleration is at the recommended maximum, but it’s OK. Thank you for choosing Bondtech Patrich.

Hi Steven, We were informed also by other customers, there were some differences in some Wanhao D6 units. Because of that now we are also shipping with the upgrade: (1) 2x M3x6 countersunk with low head. These are the screws you will need. Thank you for choosing Bondtech Steven.

Hi Julian, We have a Wanhao i3 setup guide you can find here: 01. Wanhao i3 Let us know if this guide solves your need. Thank you for choosing Bondtech Julian.

Hi Thomas, We don’t have that product in our shop (yet) but inhouse discussions are leading for us to add more Bondtech spare parts and accessories to our shop. We are currently developing our next generation website that will be online at the end of August. By then this product, and many others, will already be available. If your need is urgent, we will do our best to accommodate you as fast as possible. Let us know. Thank you for choosing Bondtech Thomas.

Dear Renata, I cannot precisely feel what you mean when you say the motor clicks. (1) Is the motor vibrating (back and forth)? (if so check our troubleshooting on this here: 1. Extrusion). (1) or is it trying to push until it suddenly slips causing the abrupt release sound (click)? Let us know a bit more in detail. The Wanhao D6 has a well know issue with Heat Creep that causes clogging. General recommendations can be found here: 4. Hotends

Daniel, Thank you for helping Oyvind. It was a very good guess. We come a bit late but here are the measurements for Future reference. Alu plate thickness : 2,95mm +/- 0,05mm Nema 17 flange Dimensions: 42x45,5mm Diagonal distance between holes (center) : 43,4mm Horizontal distance between holes (center) : 31mm Holes Diameter : 2,75mm +/- 0,05mm Nema 17 fitting hole : 22mm +/- 0,05mm BMG flange Dimensions : 60x26mm Distance between holes (center) : 50mm Distance between holes (center) : 18mm Holes diameter : 4mm +/- 0,05mm Distance from hole to edge (along the smaller edge) : 2,25mm

Hi Bernie, Your question has unclear points that raise some doubts. To help us help you, please let us know more about your case. What Bondtech extruder model you have exactly? A BMG? We don’t have a mount for the CR10S Pro. Do you mean the mount for the CR10S?

Hi Doug,

This guide was using a CR-10S with the original mainboard. In more recent models, the contact point to read the negative voltage supply is in a different point.

We updated the guide to account for the newer mainboard versions, from 2.0 to 2.2.

Hope this helps solve your problem.

Let us know if it doesn’t.

Thanks.

Hi Rene,

This guide was using a CR-10S with the original mainboard. In more recent models, the contact point to read the negative voltage supply is in a different point.

We updated the guide to account for the newer mainboard versions, from 2.0 to 2.2.

Hope this helps solve your problem.

Let us know if it doesn’t.

Thanks.

Dear Tom,

Thank you for alerting users to the filament sensor housing fitting issue. It is true that our first batches of DDS Systems included a filamento sensor mount that was fitting the previous version of the CR-10S, but not the new one.

For that reason we added an alert in this guide and we are also adding it to the DDS setup as well.

Dear Joscha,

There is not enough space there to use metal inserts to grab the screws.

We decided on letting the screws open the threads themselves.

The fan doesn’t exerts much strain on the structure so the screws don’t need, and should not, be overtighten.

We will add a note regarding this in this Step Guide.

Thank you for your feedback.

Dear Gilles,

We noticed there was a duplicate step and was removed.

Thank you for your feedback.

Hi Ben,

The Cable Holder was not intentionally placed upside down : )

It works both ways, but if you find Prusa’s option better, please use it.

Gilles,

This is a press-fit. It should be tight. If you are having trouble pressing it with your fingers, use a tool to push, like a screwdriver or pliers.

Dear Gilles,

Thank you for alerting us to this mistake.

The Axial Fan Cable should go in the plug shown in picture 3.

The blue square in picture 1 was relocated to mark the correct plug.

Dear Gilles,

Regarding the Stepper Motor Cable that we deliver with the upgrade, it is not the original, of course, but please use color as key. Plug the connector orienting it with the black wire on top, as mentioned in the purple note we added after your comment.

Dear Gilles,

Thank you again for your feedback.

We turned the pictures lighter so everyone can see clearer.