Introduction
Bondtech's Product Page
This Guide relates to the following Bondtech Direct Drive upgrade kit and Adapter Set:
DDX Direct Drive eXtruder for Creality
DDX Adapter Set For Creality Ender-3 / CR-10
Know more about the DDX here:
About the DDX Direct Drive eXtruder for Creality
Compatibility
This guide can also be used to install a DDX on a Ender-5, CR-10 and CR-10S.
Previous Requirements
The actions in this guide should be performed only after the ones from the following guide:
01. Stripping Down Your Creality Ender-3
You will need :
The Capricorn Cutting Fixture you must print before stripping down your 3D printer.
And the following:
Parts
No parts specified.
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Check the cable extension wires match the switch shown on the first image.
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Check the stock extruder cable has the middle pair of wires switched like you can check on the second image.
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Hotend Adaptor (for Ender-3, Ender-5, CR-10, and CR-10S hotends)
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Align the Adapter so its front flat face aligns with the outer face of the heater block.
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Take the Hotend Adapter and place it on the hotend.
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Align the holes from the adapter with the mounting holes from the hotend.
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Push it all the way down so the holes align.
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Use 2 M3x20mm screws supplied with the kit (the washers are optional here).
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Pair screws and washers.
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Insert each pair in a mounting hole.
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Take the Capricorn tube that comes with the kit.
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You will use the 3D printed fixture to guide your cut.
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Insert the Capricorn into the hotend, and push it all the way down. Press it straight.
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Push the fixture through the Capricorn tube.
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Push the fixture all the way until it is blocked by the hotend adapter.
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Press the fixture against the adapter.
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Cut the Capricorn guided by the fixture slot.
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There should be 5 mm of outstanding Capricorn tube.
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Unscrew the 2 screws on the back of the DDX.
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No need to remove them completely from the holes.
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Move both halves apart about 2mm in a perpendicular to split line way.
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Take the screws out of the hotend assembly.
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Insert the Hotend assembly in between the two DDX housing halves.
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Tilt the back housing a bit so it is easier to fit the hotend in.
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Push the hotend all the way in and up the DDX.
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Align the mounting holes of the DDX with the mounting holes of the hotend.
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Insert the two M3x20mm screws and washers in the holes.
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While pressing the hotend all the way up the DDX...
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...and keeping the holes aligned...
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...tighten both screws on the back to close the DDX.
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Insert a zip-tie supplied with the upgrade kit into the inner hole on the back of the DDX.
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The zip-tie will exit on the outer side.
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Conform the main cable to the groove and guide it through the zip-tie.
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The hole to the right is used on the CR-10S-Pro and compatible models.
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While holding the main cable in the groove and between the zip-tie ends
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Move the DDX towards the x-carriage and align the holes with the mounting points.
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Push it against the x-carriage plate.
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Tighten the mounting screws
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Make sure the fan cables are loose on the side of the DDX.
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The black and red pair (on this picture. other printers may have other colors) should come to the front between the DDX and the Thermistor and Heater cables.
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That way it will be able to use the cable management grooves without obstacle.
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Make sure the DDX is vertically aligned
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and the back of the DDX is flat against the x-carriage plate.
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Stepper Motor Cable Extension.
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Plug it to the stepper motor connector
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Guide the cable through the cable management grooves.
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Guide the stepper motor extension cable through the zip-tie
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Half tighten the zip-tie to hold the cables
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Stretch the stepper motor extension cable to conform it to the grooves.
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Apply 2 more zip-ties from the upgrade kit.
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Put regular space intervals between them.
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Insert one end of the PTFE tube into the push-fit.
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Two cable and tube clips
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Apply one clip to the cables
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And attach them to the PTFE tube.
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SLS printed fan shroud.
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This screw was stripped from the printer, where it was fastening the side (radial) fan.
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Fit the fan shroud on the bottom of the side fan.
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Use the screw to lock it in place, and tighten from the back.
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SLS Fan Holder
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Place the SLS Fan Holder with the arrow pointing upwards and facing against the back of the side fan.
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Use the longest screw stripped from the printer that was fastening the fan.
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Use another of the screws stripped from the printer.
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Check if the SLS Fan Holder is well tight.
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and pointing down as shown in the picture.
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1x M3x10 screw button head.
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Cross the screw through the radial fan slot from the inside outwards.
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Align it with the hole of the SLS Fan Holder
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screw it in the metal threaded insert
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do not tighten it fully. We will need to adjust the fan height during next step.
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If the screw holding the SLS Fan Holder is not too tight, you will notice the radial fan and fan shroud can move up and down.
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Push the fan down and use the available clearence to manage the cables behind.
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Then bring it back up again.
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Hold it in there.
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The side fan can move up and down, to adjust to different hotends if necessary.
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Level it to be about 2mm above the nozzle tip.
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And when in position, tighten the holding screw.
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3x M3x12 screws
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Place them inside the 3 slots indicated in the picture.
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Move the fan to align the top left hand side screw with the respective metal threaded insert.
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Finish installing the axial fan by tightening the screws.
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Use a hex-key to help put them in place.
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Use a hex-key to help put them in place.
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Pull the cable sleeve upwards
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until it covers the cables beneath the DDX zip-tie.
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Tighten the Zip-tie
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Put the clip back into place.
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Place some zip-ties along the main cable
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We recommend to distribute 3 zip-ties.
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Push the carriage all the way till the end of the x-axis.
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And grab the cable with the original clip in the extruder plate, with enough cable slack to allow the extruder to move all the way freely.
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Use one zip-tie near each side of the clip to get the cables stable.
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Clip all the cable zip-ties.
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Clip the DDX zip-tie.
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and tuck the zip-tie lock in the back groove of the DDX.
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To finish the installation, connect the extension cable connector to the original stepper motor connector.
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Properly tighten the thumbscrew. Click here to see how to do it.
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Perform a bed leveling.
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The installation is almost done.
3 things are missing before you are ready to print:
- Remember to properly tighten the thumb screw. Find out how to do it here: tighten thumbscrew
- Perform a bed levelling.
- Change The Machine Settings using Cura.
The installation is almost done.
3 things are missing before you are ready to print:
- Remember to properly tighten the thumb screw. Find out how to do it here: tighten thumbscrew
- Perform a bed levelling.
- Change The Machine Settings using Cura.